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Not a great deal lies on the road West of the Nile |
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Out on the gravel road south of Idfu en route to Aswan |
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The desert shot around Idfu district |
Setting out from the comfort of Luxor we picked up the road
south aiming for Idfu. The rest and and refuel gave us just what we needed
making the 114km seem to roll by easily. I think as far as the cycling has been
in Egypt today was easily one of the best. Leaving the busier areas further
north the air was much cleaner and the roads much quieter. The terrain was also
very nice with lush green on one side of the road and in stark contrast the
Eastern Desert on the left stretching off in a bleak rocky set of hills and
ravines. This desert stretches out to the Red Sea beyond. I am assuming and
feel free to email that the Sahara is split between the Western Desert which
stretches out to Morocco and Mauritania and the West coast and is then split by
the White Nile giving the Eastern desert out the Eastern Coast.
Pulling over to rest for a bit along the palm fringed banks
of the Nile early on I looked into the Nile and decided now was the time. The
river is pretty dirty the further you go North but here it seemed clearish. Down
to pants and in I went. Warm water some odd reeds floating around and although
the crocodiles are the other side of the dam now it does make you jump when
touch something. The current though is pretty strong and makes swimming up
river hard work. A couple of bemused
fisherman where there who at first seemed surprised a white man in his pants
came out the bushes and got in the river.
We continued on making Idfu for around 2 just as the heat was kicking
in. The green is now shrinking to the Niles banks and the road weaves around
the desert.
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A cooling dip in the Nile between Luxor and Idfu |
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Nubian man |
Leaving Idfu we headed out along the left east bank where we made our way through a crumbling road and into the desert scenery. Dan popped a puncture shortly after
hitting the rough stuff and after a little way ended up in the back of a pick
up until we headed over the Aswan bridge and cycled down to Aswan. And that
brought an end to Egypt after cycling for two weeks we arrived at the southern
end. Its been a superb trip thus far getting a real glimpse into Egyptian life
post revaluation Its certainly suffering from a lack of tourism and this is in
part due to the uprising seen not long ago. Also it revolves around the
mistrust of the west against North African countries and the Middle East. If
you roll into any town or village down the length of Egypt then you will receive a million hello’s and smiles, in Luxor we where invited into the mosque
to have a look around and see what was going on. This is not the actions that
you would believe if you where to follow the news and movie industry and government advice. If you vilify people of a particular faith then eventually
you will create the consequences you fear most. If you drop bombs on people then you should expect to get bigger bombs thrown back at you. Essentially if
you have a culture of fear which villifys an ethnic group who live in
countries which have it tough then you will end up creating great resentment
which can have severe consequences. If you greet people with a smile and ask
how they are they will do the same in return. In the more remote areas in the south we received tea and sandwiches and also fruit and drinks for nothing as people
where happy to see new faces. Come to Egypt and get the tourism up and running
again and to experience it don't get on the air con coaches walk around and use
public transport or even ride a bike.
We are relaxing today in Aswan before catching the train to Cairo tomorrow and then its on to Nairobi at the weekend and the cycle continues. A good relax in Aswan although a moments worry when a rush of excitement hit me on a boat out in the Nile and with a moments lapse of judgement I jumped headlong off the front of the boat and the strong current washed be back under the boat, all good though and just a cut on the hand from grabbing the rudder as it rushed passed.
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The sun sets on southern Egypt with a Felucia on the Nile |